Cleveland Plain Dealer May 29, 2002

The wine is fine, and the chef aims to please

Restaurant Row
John S. Long

Really fine neighborhood taverns, the type where you can get a good drink, and solid food, are few and far between. The best become destination spots, since few people have one in their own neighborhood.

I wish the Grovewood Tavern & Wine Bar, 17105 Grovewood Ave., Cleveland, was in my neighborhood. The Grovewood has a well-stocked bar, but better yet, it offers 150 different wines, 100 of them by the glass. But take my word, buy your wine by the bottle: Grovewood has just about the best restaurant wine prices in town, about $8, occasionally less, over retail prices.

And when Grovewood gets a closeout price on its wine, as it did for the world-class 1994 Chateau Musar, it passes the savings on to the customer. The tavern charges $28 for a bottle that sells for $50 in most restaurants.

But wine isn't the only bargain here. Chef Tim Ogan is creating great food in what must be the tiniest restaurant kitchen in Cleveland. On a recent visit an appetizer special was a serving of crispy risotto balls with a creamy interior stuffed with spinach. That was followed by cold and spicy Japanese noodles in a sesame sauce with yakitori duck breast and seaweed salad - for $12. Most of the other entrees, from seafood pasta to chicken or pork tenderloin mole, are in the $12 to $14 range.

If you are going for dinner, it isn't a bad idea to call ahead. This bar is filled with neighbors, and the dining room can fill up quickly, even on weeknights. There is a little more room in the dining room since Grovewood removed a pool table after realizing it earned the owners about $9 last year after they paid the monthly rental fees. For reservations call 216-531-4900.